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Bordeaux 2007 - Part IV

by Tom Cannavan

Saint-Emilion and Pomerol




Saint-Emilion


Chapelle d'Ausone 2007
Very reduced, but with vigorous shaking begins to reveal deep-set, quite muscular black fruit. The palate is firm but a really chocolaty depth begins to assert, with sumptuous tannins that are rich and creamy, and very nice, bright fruit and acidity. 90/100

Chateau Ausone 2007
Very kirsch-like, floral lift here, with racy, refined blue-black fruit. An intense mulberry ripeness, all supported by a creamy oak quality. The palate has a lovely red fruit brightness married to a deeper, plummier character that comes through in the plush, silky tannins. 95/100

Le Petit Cheval 2007
70% cabernet franc and 30% merlot much more merlot than usual with only 45% surviving. Nice cab Franc dustiness and black fruit freshness. The fruit is lovely, with real blue/black refinement and a chocolaty ripeness to the tannins. Delicious stuff, perhaps slightly leaner than usual, but finishing with enough pure black fruit, coffee and spice. 91/100

Château Cheval Blanc 2007
55% Cabernet Franc, 45% Merlot, which is typical. Real blue-black fruit intensity with some dustiness again, and stylish mineral and gravel notes. On the palate this has lovely flesh and silkiness, but it is a fairly tight, juicy wine with real energy and finesse. A beautiful wine. 95/100

Château l'Arrosee 2007
Lovely sense of richness and roundness here, with an undertow of coffee and plum, and a nice sense of depth. The palate has a similar concentration without over extraction - lovely silky weight and structure into a long, spicy finish. 91/100

Château Angélus 2007
Big, powerful, meaty but complex nose. On the palate there is lots of coffeeish oak and obvious extraction, but there's a lovely energy too, with some fine red fruit and hints of juicy, plummy acidity keep 92/100

Château Balestard La Tonnelle 2007
Warming, tobacco and slightly leafy quality, refined with red fruits, but stays quite herbal and leafy on the palate, with a certain austerity and dustiness. 88/100

Château Beau-Séjour Becot 2007
Refined, quite plump black fruit nose. Quite silky on the palate, with smooth tannins and a red plum bite. Quite a spicy finish, in a wine that perhaps lacks a touch of breadth and plumpness, but has style. 89/100

Chateau Belair 2007
Really sweet, bright, focused and charming fruit here with a certain lift. Cherry and kirsch fruit to the fore and an exotic spice. On the palate a rounding vanillin note, with chewy, dense tannins, but some flesh. 89/100

Château Belfont-Belcier 2007
Very nice, quite voluptuous and attractive nose, with plenty of creamy, ripe fruit and a sheen of silky oak. The palate has a fine, glossy ripeness, with chewy, thick tannins, but there is depth and meaty structure here. 90/100

Château Berliquet 2007
Vinous nose, with some taut, firm, slightly lipsticky character. On the palate this seems quite pure and racy. There is a tight, refined, very pure fruit quality. It is a touch dry in the finish, but attractive. 88/100

Château Cadet-Piola 2007
Nicely fragrant, racy red fruit. Lots of exotic incense notes are appealing. On the palate the fruit drives this one, with a soft, voluptuous silky character and fine sweetness to the fruit. A decent structure too. 90/100

Château Canon-La-Gaffelière 2007
Beautifully ripe, plush, flattering nose with quite fat Dense and smoky fruit. There's a huge whack of toasty, charry oak on the palate, that rather dominates and dries this sample. There is acidity and a depth of sweet fruit there, but difficult to assess ultimate balance here. 90/100

Château Cap de Mourlin 2007
Quite ripe, black fruit dominated nose wit a touch of soy and savoury character. The palate has a racy, tight tannin and acid structure, but seems a fairly big wine, with some sinewy, powerful structure. 89/100

Château Chauvin 2007
Slightly lipsticky quality, with leafy cherry fruit. The palate has a slightly inky dryness and plenty of extract, but the sweet fruit comes through and balance is good overall. 88/100

Chateau Fonbel 2007
Slightly schisty, mineral nose with tight, racy black fruit. Very nice red fruit, with a juicy plum freshness, and a mouth-watering juicy acidity. 89/100

Clos Fourtet 2007
Vinous, with black fruits and some charry oak, and a certain silkiness. On the palate has quite a firm edge of grippy tannin, but its juicy too, with black plum and blackcurranty skin tang and juiciness. Some espresso starts to fill in, and becomes quite tangy and mouth-watering. 90/100

Clos des Jacobins 2007
Plenty of oak here, with a big vanillin nose, and quite deep, dusty fruit. The palate is a touch blunt, with rich black cherry fruit and a meaty presence, but rather short. 87/100

Clos St Martin 2007
There's a leafy cherry and slightly inky quality here, with the palate also a touch austere, with fairly bright! High-toned fruit, but lacking a touch of flesh and warmth. 86/100

Château Dassault 2007
There's more warmth and a plummy red fruit quality here, with a touch of spice and toast. On the palate bright, fairly high-toned fruit, and has a little more depth and racy structure to carry it. 87/100

Château Figeac 2007
Slightly odd cheesiness here which must be a dominating oak quality I think, with the fruit beginning to emerge. The palate has a lovely structure though, with firm, but ripe tannins and the intense black fruit coming through powerfully quite elegant in the end, though that odd aroma detracts from this sample. 89/100

Château Fleur Cardinale 2007
Immediately harmonious, with a certain cedar and incense exotic quality, but integrated, ripe berry fruit and a touch of plum. The palate has a dry, savoury, slightly meaty character, but nice balance and some length here. 89/100

Château Fonplelgade 2007
Big, fruity nose but with plenty of vanillin oak too and touches of coffee and cream. The palate has a slightly dry inkiness. 87/100

Château Fonroque 2007
Biodynamic estate. Gorgeous perfume here, with an animal, gamy note but also great purity. Voluptuous and soft on the palate, the concentration is there, but all wrapped in cedary, tobacco velvet character. Not huge length, but fruit sweetness. 89/100

Château Franc Mayne 2007
Quite deep and sinuous, with a certain perfume too. On the palate this has lovely decisiveness, with a striking, high-toned but concentrated and deep fruit. Decent tannin structure too, with harmony and length. 90/100

Château Grand Corbin 2007
Quite bright, with a slightly lipsticky note. Cherry fruit comes through. On the palate neat and tidy, with a slightly dry, short finish, with tannins taking hold over fruit. 86/100

Château Grand Corbin-Despagne 2007
Nice, crisp, lively cherry and blackcurrant fruit is the initial impression here, with a refined, cedary oak quality and touch of plump, plummy quality coming through. Nice on the palate too, as it fills in with plenty of ripe fruit, and a spicy tannic structure that gives it breadth and depth. Very good. 89/100

Château Grandes-Murailles 2007
Lightly leafy, perhaps a touch lean, and follows onto the palate with a similar lean structure that really doesn't have enough flesh or sweetness of fruit. 86/100

Château La Couspaude 2007
Quite a sulphury, gunflint note, with some real minerality. The palate has ripe, full, slightly bloody fruit, but with rich, chocolaty tannins. Still, there's something not quite convincing here. 86/100

Château La Dominique 2007
Lots of perfume and gamy animal quality here, but clean and fresh. The palate is lacking a bit of fruit sweetness at this stage, with snappy, decisive tannins and really quite a nice savoury structure, in a less fruity but still elegant and structured style. 89/100

Château La Gaffelière 2007
Very creamy, silky, with rich, chocolaty fruit and oak quality. The palate has a lovely edge of liquorice to it and plenty of charm, with deliciously plump fruit and a juicy, sour cherry acidity. Harmonious. 90/100

La Serre 2007
Very pure fruit here, with a cherry and red plum juiciness and a firm backbone of racy tannin. Not huge length here, but packed with fruit, spice and richness. 87/100

La Tour du Pin 2007
70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc. Refined, exotic incense oak. Quite tight, quite racy, with firm, supple tannins, perhaps missing a touch of mid palate flesh, but balanced and lovely. 89/100

Château La Tour Figeac 2007
Compact, pretty, very composed and elegant nose, with red fruits and nicely handled oak. The palate has plenty of savoury, meaty character with a chewy. Structure and supple, savoury fruit. Spicy and long, this is very good. 90/100

Chateau Lafleur-Gazin 2007
Very smooth, chocolaty, ripe plum and coffee nose with well integrated oak and lots of fruit sweetness. On the palate fleshy and ripe, but plenty of structure here with firm, supple tannins and a core of sour orange and cherry acidity. Lovely freshness and depth. 92/100

Château Larcis-Ducasse 2007
Quite a bright, creamy fruit nose with plenty of slick, black cherry. The palate has a drying tannin quality, that is just a touch inky. That liquoricy, plumskin grip is emphasised by the extraction and relatively high spice of the oak, in a wine that is packed with character and flavour, but lacks the harmony of some. 89/100

Château Laroze 2007
Nicely creamy red berry fruit. Warm, ripe character with nice tobacco layers. Good palate weight and nice acid and tannin balance. Long and tangy. 89/100

Chateau Lucia 2007
Bright cherry fruit, quite aromatic with a little floral note. Some deeper, smoky oak notes are layered beneath. The palate has more charm than some here, with a juicy sweet-fruited character and warming depth beneath. 90/100

Chateau Magdeleine 2007
An extra layer of cedary, smoky oak here over dense, layered red fruit. The palate is quite firm, with really grippy, dry tannins. There is a juiciness to the fruit, and the rich spice of the oak and a certain plummy depth emerges. A fairly hard and uncompromising structure here, but one to watch. 89/100

Château Moulin du Cadet 2007
Vinous nose, with red fruits and a deal of vanilla and cream. Slightly flat on the palate, with the fruit rather weak, slightly dilute on the mid palate. Quite a nice structure behind, but seems to be based more on spicy oak and tannin. 86/100

Moulin St Georges 2007
Much more sinewy, deep black fruit character. A touch of silky. Fleshy black plum, with delicious hint of coffee. Quite rich and deep, lovely weight. Broad, sweet and impressive. 90/100

Château Pavie-Macquin 2007
Creamy, opulent nose, with a rich, ripe glossy black fruit seductiveness. On the palate this has wonderful fruit: really ripe, velvety and mouth-filling, with coffee and vanilla adding plump weight, and a firm edge to very chocolaty tannins. Good acidity to balance makes this a very appealing and one of the most delicious drinking wines of the vintage. 91/100

Chateau Plince 2007
Tiny hint of resinous, maybe very slightly green note with plenty of new oak and firm, juicy black fruit. On the palate a roughening, plum skin depth of tannin, but hints of coffee and chocolate add spicy depth. Mouth-filling and ripe, this has flesh and approachable, spicy style. 89/100

Château Rol Valentin 2007
Pretty, ripe, juicy black cherry. A touch of blueberry gloss and some smoky oak beneath. On the palate this has a certain inkiness again, with quite lithe, fine tannins, but the fruit is perhaps just slightly submerged and the finish a touch drying at this early stage. 89/100

Château Simard 2007
Intense, quite earthy nose with a touch of charcoal and rich black fruit. Black fruit sweetness comes through on the palate nicely, with quite a silky, seductive finish. 89/100

Château Troplong Mondot 2007
Quite a refined, elegant black fruit nose, hinting at a tight, muscular density. On the palate deeply set, with firm, liquoricy tannins and plenty of coffeeish oak and dark, plummy fruit. This is another very big, powerful wine, but I find some charm here too. 92/100

Château Trottevieille 2007
A little more light and shade about this aromatically compared to some. There is a touch of espresso and game, as well as solid black fruit. On the palate really quite juicy, with a firm, liquorice edge to black plum, but some little mineral and cherry juiciness too. Quite serious and a touch severe perhaps, but classy. 91/100

Pomerol

Château Pétrus 2007
Pétrus adds a fascinating gravel and very gently meaty edge to powerful black fruit. There is terrific concentration and intensity here. On the palate this has a very composed, harmonious but grippy character, with extremely taut tannins and acidity, and the fruit tightly-packed and layered. Not so giving as the Trotanoy, but has obvious gravitas. 95/100

Chateau Trotanoy 2007
Similar concentration to the Certan, with that kirsch-like, tightly-wound fruit suppleness and taut quality. On the palate there's a sudden flood of fruit sweetness, with the rich cassis and juicy plum depth flooding across the palate, backed by a coffee and chocolate depth. Great length and suave, suede-like presence here. 95/100

Chateau Le Pin 2007
Big, rich coffeeish nose, with quite exotic, layered scents, and a deep seam of slightly gamy, but ripe, dense black fruit. There's a touch of something floral too. The black fruit is very pure and very precise, with a beautifully delineated tannin and acidity. Not quite the imposing presence that is Pétrus, but simply beautiful wine. 95/100

Chateau Le Pin 2006
Absolutely beautiful fragrance, with extraordinary, haunting floral lift and very pure kirsch-touched pure black fruit. There's a fantastic silkiness to the tannins and the refined blackcurrant fruit, with terrific energy and life about it. Lovely weight and balance of concentration and pure, silky finesse. 96/100

Chateau Bourgneuf-Vayron 2007
Quite a bright, dry, lipsticky red fruit character, with ripe fruit and a creamy oak underpinning. The palate has real juiciness, with firm, tight tannins and good cherry acidity. Crisp and elegant, but hinting at depth. 89/100

Chateau Certan 2007
Great concentration and intensity here, with bright fruit and integrated, firm, cedary character. On the palate very juicy and smooth, with plum and blackcurrant fruit giving lots of keen, powerful, tight flavours, matched by silky but firm tannic structure. Spicy, but always focused and tight. 91/100

Chateau Certan Marzelle 2007
Warming, vinous nose with vanilla and coffee. Quite plummy and deep. On the palate a lovely balance, with ripe, rounded fruit and a certain precision to the tannins and acidity. Lovely drinking already. 89/100

Château Beauregard 2007
Attractively coffeeish and chocolate oak notes, with plush, ripe bramble and blackberry fruit beneath. He palate suffers from a slightly drying oak tannin and extraction, though once again there does seem to be good fruit and balancing acidity. Juiciness does emerge. 90/100

Château Clinet 2007
Very elegant, rose petal note fleetingly, with rich black fruit and lovely suggestion of supple richness. The palate is juicy, with a liquoricy grip and plumskin fruit, and with fine oak integration and a bit of crispness, this is very appealing. 91/100

Château Gazin 2007
Lots of warming, toasty coffee aromas with rounded, creamy cassis fruit. The palate displays a lot of slightly raw oak at this stage, but there's a really juicy cherry and red plum sweetness and tart acidity that freshens up the whole picture beautifully. 92/100

Chateau Hosanna 2007
Quite bright, ripe, glossy and high-toned red cherry and blackcurrant fruit. The palate has that dry, smooth, restrained quality, with very fine tannins and a juicy acidity that gives a crisp edge to the fruit. Layered character here, with an orangy quality and tightness to the structure. 91/100

Château La Cabanne 2007
Nicely fragrant, with exotic Sandalwood notes and some bright fruit aromatics. The palate has toasty and a rich, quite dusty quality, and as the drying tannins and toasty oak come through it is quite broad and warming, though perhaps lacks a touch of energy. 89/100

Château La Conseillante 2007
A little bit reductive, but some quite charming, bright red fruit comes through. Slightly lipsticky quality. On the palate much more pleasing. Quite bright, polished, perhaps lacks a touch of fleshy sweetness, but fine. 90/100

Château La Croix de Gay 2007
Very attractive, creamy red fruit. Quite a plush, silky chocolate character. On the palate a very juicy character, a touch of dry, lipsticky extraction, and perhaps not quite the fruit I'd want to see, but the taut, spicy finish starts to show a little fruit sweetness through the sheen of tough tannins. 88/100

Chateau La Grave a Pomerol 2007
Quite a lot of vanillin new oak, with very nice black fruit and a firm, kirsch-like brightness. On the palate this is very drinkable, with pepper and spice, and a rich core of black fruit. Good bit of structure too. 88/100

Château La Pointe 2007
The custardy oak is quite dominant in this early sample, with quite glossy fruit beneath. The palate has lovely refinement, with tight, quite dry and grippy tannins, but a nice orange and cherry skin juiciness and tartness. Quite charming, if in need of some time to shake off a tough tannic edge. 89/100

Chateau Lafleur Pétrus 2007
Firm, crisp, kirsch-like cherry fruit. There's a very bright edge here, with a sense of refinement. The palate too is very tight, reserved and confident, with the structure and elegance all there, but tightly presented at this stage. 91/100

Chateau Latour a Pomerol 2007
Very nice red plum and ripe cherry fruit, and a seamless, refined oak background. The palate has a dry, but fine tannic grip, but again the rich, sweet concentration of plummy fruit is beautifully balanced. Lovely drinking again. 90/100

Fugue de Nenin 2007
Nice juicy red fruit on the nose, with a cherry and redcurrant character. Smooth, chocolaty tannins, nice depth and svelteness. Just a touch of spice roughening up the finish. 88/100

Château Nenin 2007
Really intense, fragrant red cherry and almost strawberry soft fruitiness. A more obvious layer of creamy oak. The palate has intense, smooth concentrated red fruits, with a lovely silkiness and long finish, with some freshness and bite keeping it sharp. 90/100

Château Petit-Village 2007
Quite a voluptuous nose, with a rich, thick black fruit quality. The palate has a lovely silkiness, with cassis and chocolaty black plum. Lovely sweet fruit and suppleness here and very attractive already. 91/100

Chateau Providence 2007
Much glossier, more vanilla and sweet, opulent fruit-laden than Lafleur Pétrus, with smooth, extremely silky tannins and a tight, but ripe and mouthfilling fruit quality. Very nice spice and chocolate depth, and very easy to drink. 91/100

Château Taillefer 2007
Nice liquoricy concentration with refined, crisp black fruit and very racy tannin structure. A nice coffeeish oak comes in, with nice life and energy here and has quite a pure fruity, blackcurrant at its core. 89/100

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