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Bordeaux 2006 - Part IV

by Tom Cannavan

Saint-Emilion and Pomerol



Saint-Emilion


Le Petit Cheval (France) 2006
60/40 merlot and cabernet franc. Quite dry, but fine cherry fruit with a touch of rose hip. Fine, with a slightly raw oakiness but good depth and an inky extraction plenty of concentration here, really quite deep and sinewy, though lacks a little flesh and gras. 86-90

Cheval Blanc (France) 2006
55 merlot 45 cabernet 6ranc. Much richer, smoother, deeper than Petit Cheval. A meaty character too and a mineral quality. Really quite sensual in comparison to many others. No shortage of tannins. Big, dry, inky extraction. Thick tannins here, but the balance is excellent. Long, persistent. 92-96

La Chapelle d'Ausone (France) 2006
Rich, ripe, sensuous blackcurrant with a hint of mint and schist. Lovely depth and ripeness apparent. The palate develops a lovely smooth, rich texture that shows this off. Rather dry tannins just blunt the finish slightly, but very nice components her. 88-92

Ausone (France) 2006
Deep, rich, sensuous nose with plenty of fruit. A warm earthiness comes through and some smoky, almost bacon fat. On the palate a beautifully ripe fruit quality. Very silky and sweet, with an almost strawberry pulp softness and ripeness. The tannins are svelte and creamy, with a developing weight of coffee and chocolate beneath, and a finely honed tannin structure. Lovely acid balance here and whilst not quite so complete and harmonious as Pétrus. 92-96

Virginie de Valandruad (France) 2006
Big powerful nose. Lots of deep-set plummy fruit. Silky and rich on the palate. Huge extraction here but then the fruit is very dense and ripe, with a certain fleshiness. Less charm than 2005, but very good wine. 90-94

Valandruad (France) 2006
A more supple charm on the nose than the Virginie. Very tight, composed but muscular, with lovely violet and kirsch nuances. The palate is seamless and powerful, with intense, concentrated fruit. Masses of tannin and extract, but lovely fruit. 91-95

Angélus (France) 2006
Quite creamy and vividly fruity. Smooth and harmonious. Massive tannins, very powerful but ripe and sweet. This has masses of concentration and extract, but has balance. 89-93

Balestard La Tonnelle (France) 2006
Quite earthy and nutty with a solid core of cassis fruit. Lovely ripeness and fullness. A really sweet, succulent core of fruit here with fine acidity and fine, chocolaty tannins. Smooth and long. 90-94

Beau Séjour Becot (France) 2006
Creamy and full with good fruit. Quite creamy and bright. The palate has nice coffee and chocolate richness without the powerful extraction of Angélus. 88-92

Belair (France) 2006
Slightly inky and dry, paintboxy aromatics with dome cherry fruit. Similarly rather dry and a touch lacking in flesh and charm. Good length eventually but rather more lean and dry. 87-91

Berliquet (France) 2006
Bright creamy raspberry fruit quality. Some rose hip and floral aromas. Palate has a nice silky texture and good fruit quality. Dry tannins begin to grip, but a coffeeish depth and hint of plushness too. 88-92

Canon La Gaffelière (France) 2006
Bright, rich but rounded fruit quality. Some red plum and fleshy character. The fruit on the palate is sweet and vivid. Really lovely sense of harmony here, with no lack of concentration, but lovely weight and elegance. Very fine 90-94

Cap de Mourlin (France) 2006
Rather tight, vinous but ungiving nose. Tight and sinewy tannins on the palate. Good concentration and it has a developing depth of fruit. But perhaps lacks a little plumpness and charm. 88-92

Dassault (France) 2006
Racy, fresh, nicely crisp red fruit character with a touch of cassis. A little tight and inky at the same time. Very tight palate. A real juiciness to the fruit though, with lovely acidity brightening a quite tannic picture. Rather good overall. 89-93

Figeac (France) 2006
Meaty, dense and rich aromas. Slightly reduced, but serious stuff. Palate has a rounded, fleshy appeal. A very nice mouthful of rip, fleshy, harmonious wine with depth and layers of complexity already. 90-94

Château de Fonbel (France) 2006
Slightly reduced at present, and rather tough seeming. On the palate it is also quite sinewy and chewy, but with good fruit at the core could develop more charm. 86-90

Clos Fourtet (France) 2006
Vinous and tight, with a compact red fruit character. This is cool and quite racy on the palate, with a tautness that I like, and plenty of spice building in the finish. 88-92

Franc Mayne (France) 2006
Tight, vinous nose. Quite charming fruit begins to come through. Palate a touch medicinal, but fruit comes through. Slightly leaner than some, but has good length. 87-91

Grand Mayne (France) 2006
Quite subdued, but earthy and deep with a solidity about the fruit. This has a smoky and schisty note on the palate, with quite a refined fruit, but again one that slightly lacks fleshy charm. 88-92

La Couspaude (France) 2006
Plenty of flashy, developed, flattering coffee bean and ripe fruit. Couspaude is bright and almost minty in its fruit and sweet oak. Flattering, but enjoyable. 87-91

La Dominique (France) 2006
Flattering, feminine with quite plump sweet fruit character. Nice chocolaty quality. Very attractive and a bit of fat on the palate, with graceful sweetness. Easy to like if not the structure and gout de terroir of dome. 88-92

La Gaffelière (France) 2006
Solid fruitiness here, with a rounded appeal. On the palate very well mannered and elegant, with very good fruit ripeness and a nicely refined, ripe tannin structure. Quite sensuous and deep. Very good. 90-94

La Tour Figeac (France) 2006
Graceful, tight red fruit and cherry character. The palate is quite chewy and dense, with fairly monolithic tannins at this stage. Dense and mouthfilling stuff, though rather brutal. Plenty of stuffing. 88-92

Larcis Ducasse (France) 2006
Quite a light, crisp fresh cherry brightness. Palate is rather dry and a little thin. Certainly lacks some flesh and a bit of concentration compared to some, but On the other hand, that gives it a little more sweetness and charm. 88-92

Larmande (France) 2006
Lovely fruit quality. Plenty of creamy, ripe red fruit and a solid plumminess. The palate is quite cool and composed even at this stage, with a silky freshness to fruit and tannins. Structured and fine, perhaps won't be for the long haul, but lovely. 89-93

Magdeleine (France) 2006
Very bold fruit with lots of bright cherry and plum. Rather ruthless tannins with aggressive edge that is slightly difficult at present. 86-90

Moulin St George (France) 2006
Quite a lot of slightly raw, custardy oak at first with some really sweet cassis fruit beneath. The palate has big firm, chewy tannins and that core of pure, fine fruit persists. Lovely weight and texture in the end. Very good. 88-92

Pavie Macquin (France) 2006
Nicely floral highlights to quite solid red fruit. A touch paintboxy perhaps. On the palate quite charming, with a cherry sweet ripeness and hint of elegance. A very dry tannic structure overtakes, but this shows real promise. 89-93

Rolland Maillet (France) 2006
Quite meaty, with smoky scents and rich red fruits. The palate is extracted and quite deep, with very dry, thick tannins and an inky depth. Rather dry and dense at this stage with a slightly ashy dryness. 85-89

La Serre (France) 2006
Plenty of coffee oak and creamy richness. Good fruit. Very ripe and mouthfilling but smooth and well balanced. Perhaps lacks a little plumpness. 86-90

Simmard (France) 2006
Fine, ripe quite bright nose. Palate has very dry tannins. Perhaps a little too dry with a touch of beetrooty extraction. There is a finesse about this and a background suggestion of plushness. 86-90

Troplong Mondot (France) 2006
Quite a flattering coffee and richly fruity character. Quite plush and forward. There is sweetness and a layering of milk chocolate smooth character. Very flattering and easy to drink. Good tannins and length. 89-93

Trottevielle (France) 2006
Doesn't leap out on the nose, with a subtlety about it, but nice fruit and a coffee like character starts to emerge. The palate is ripe and rich, with some real sweetness emerging. Fleshy and dense, with a charm and warmth, this excellent. 90-94

Pomerol

Pétrus (France) 2006
Dense, very solid core of fruit here, with a plummy, rich core. There are meaty and earthy nuances, but mostly about density of fruit. On the palate the initial impression is of real fruit sweetness, with a really cassis and kirsch like bright edge to a much deeper, plummy core. Silky tannins, with a dark chocolaty richness and sweetness, and an already harmonious acidity. Very complete wine, especially in this vintage. 93-97

Hosanna (France) 2006
Very pure, dark, vivid fruit with violet and kirsch notes. Lovely cedary oak quality already just showing through. The palate has lovely fruit, with fine ripeness and richness and plenty of silky tannins adding structure without aggression. Has some light and shade about it. 90-94

Certan de may (France) 2006
Slightly reduced, but an earthiness and firm black fruitiness. Gorgeous palate, where a silky weight of fruit comes through. Fruit is bright and composed, with power but silky precision too in tannins and overall balance. 91-95

Trotanoy (France) 2006
Big, quite dense and meaty nose, with a powerful fruit character and plenty of solid, ripe fruit at the core. Lovely silky, dense, mouthfilling fruit on the palate with creamy tannic structure that is really quite beefy and powerful, bit this has the weight and fleshy, plummy fruit to match. 93-97

Latour a Pomerol (France) 2006
Dense, quite composed, lithe character on the nose with juicy black fruits and a hint of chocolate. Palate has lovely definition. Plenty of dense, fleshy black fruits with a plummy grip and ripeness tannins forceful but chocolaty and rich and bright acidity. Very good 89-93

Lafleur Pétrus (France) 2006
Crunchy quite bright red fruit, a certain schisty quality. Oak is quite prominent at this stage. Plenty of rich, rounded vanilla and spice, with a bittersweet depth of plummy fruit and espresso. Structured, with good acidity and length. 91-95

Providence (France) 2006
Lots of bold, lithe, creamy fruit. Tight, fine grained tannin and fruit structure with a lithe and bold character and plenty of spicy bite. Becomes quite rich and chocolaty in the finish. Impressive 89-93

Fontenil (France) 2006
Nice cherry and plum, dark blueberry fruit. Plum skin and bittersweet notes on the palate, but the fleshiness is good here, and Fontenil has some plumpness and charm. A touch of smokiness and chocolate in the finish. 87-91

Bertineau St Vincent Lalande de Pomerol (France) 2006
Michel Rolland. Deep, cherry and plum scents. Quite dry and a touch inky. The palate has quite crisp, mouthfilling red fruits. This has a bit of flesh on the mid palate and good structure 87-91

Beauregard (France) 2006
Ice, rich, smooth plum and cherry appeal with a sense of harmony. Palate quite silky with good fruit and elegant structure. Sweetness here and flesh. 88-94

Clinet (France) 2006
Chocolaty and rich. Already a nice coffee and fleshy richness on the palate this has lovely fruit and a fleshy plumpness very harmonious, with good spice and structure, but a little more joy about it. 90-94

Gazin (France) 2006
A plump and sweet, plummy ripeness here with a chocolaty richness. The palate has a rich, ripe texture and plenty of flesh and sweetness. The tannins here are quite massive, but there's a smooth, supple quality to them and chocolaty depth. 90-94

Le Bon Pasteur (France) 2006
Refined, quite racy and elegant, with kirsch and cherry notes. Chocolate covered cherry liqueurs. Lovely finesse and gracefulness here, with a real brightness to the fruit. A richness and ripeness here stands up to the big, thick tannins and decent acid levels. A very successful wine. 89-93

La Cabanne (France) 2006
Bright fruit quality here with cherry and a more floral edged fragrance. Crisp and feminine on the palate too, with a lighter tannic structure and good, sweet fruit. Lovely wine in a more graceful style. 89-93

La Conseillante (France) 2006
A touch of meaty, earthy charm here with plenty of gout de terroir. The palate has plenty of depth and structure, with a solid underpinning of ripe, black fruits. Comes together really very nicely with coffee oak and elegance. 90-94

La Croix de Gay (France) 2006
Quite. A light perfumed raspberry and cherry fruit. Clean and bright and quite creamy. Palate is fairly dry and inky, plenty of extraction and a touch lacking flesh perhaps. 87-91

La Pointe (France) 2006
Inky, slightly paintboxy character with some cherry fruit and a vinous charm. Fleshy and rich, with lots of dry extract and rather dry tannins, but has flesh and weight and good length. 88-92

Petit-Village (France) 2006
Quite bright and elegant, with creamy blueberry and cassis fruit. Very nice quality here, with plenty of fleshy, sweet, mouthfilling fruit. Tannins are smooth and supple, and the overall balance here is excellent with a spice and tangy acid balance. 89-93

Plince (France) 2006
Quite inky, dark and plummy. Carries slightly more flesh and fruit sweetness to carry the firm, very bold tannins. Big framed and bold. 87-91

Lafleur Gazin (France) 2006
Quite charming, plump, fleshy stuff with nice weight of fruit on the palate. The tannins come in and are very dry and a touch aggressive. Quite pure fruit at the core of this and should come good. 88-92

Croix de Taillfer (France) 2006
Bright, sweet, very ripe and bright, creamy fruit. The palate is very dense and has a certain blue/black fruit quality. There is a sweetness and richness here. Becomes quite chocolaty and sweet. 87-91

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