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Bordeaux 2006 - Part II

by Tom Cannavan

Graves and Pessac-Léognan



Pessac-Léognan Blanc


Laville Haut-Brion 2006
86% Semillon, 14% Sauvignon Blanc. Taut, supple, pear and apple fruit, with a background of slightly oatmeally quality, but really very fresh. Peachy ripeness on the palate, but clean and refreshing whilst still displaying glimpses of complexity. 87-91

Haut-Brion Blanc 2006
Semillon 44%, Sauvignon Blanc 56%. Beautifully figgy, nutty, deliciously sweet and ripe succulent fruit. Some leafy, nettly notes come through, and plenty of peachy ripeness. The palate has a really rich, ripe, really quite grippy presence. Lovely pear-like succulence. Very nice balance and acidity here, with a fullness and that grippy presence kept fresh and long. 91-95

Haut-Brion 2006
Gorgeous sweet, ripe, plummy black fruit. With an almost minty ripeness and plushness, but a hint of something more mineral. Lovely sweetness and juicy ripeness on the palate. Really gorgeous tannin quality - outstanding for this vintage. Very long, with extremely good quality. Tannins are dry, but the whole wine is imbued with a gorgeous sense of fleshiness and svelteness. Delicious and, for me, the star wine of the left bank. 93-97

Bouscaut Blanc 2006
Nutty, oaky seedy quality with white fruit. Plenty of ripeness and power on the palate, with a real acid structure. 87-91

Brown Blanc 2006
Pineapple and pear, bright fruit quite tanky but lovely brightness with a nice streak of nettly Sauvignon zest. Lovely limpid fruit with lots of citrus cut and plenty of verve. Lemony acidity sweeps through the finish very well made for early drinking. 87-91

Carbonnieux Blanc 2006
Quite vibrant, pungent and grassy. Good fruit with a big, soft creamy palate and good apple acidity. Big framed and some structure here. 87-91

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2006
Very refined and classy this, with elegance and light about it. Palate has too, with a lovely racy quality already and oak filling in lovely. 88-92

Fieuzal Blanc 2006
Very fresh and appealing, with plenty of zest and vibrant, verdant, zingy fruit. Lots of firm acid structure, with a suggestion of rich leesyness. Very long and composed, and fresh. 88-92

Larrivet-Haut-Brion Blanc 2006
Lovely creamy nose, plenty of oak at present. Palate has nice weight and texture. Fleshy, ripe, good fruit here. Balanced and quite powerful. 87-91

Malartic-Lagravière Blanc 2006
Powerful, creamy, quite spicy with pristine fruit. Lovely spangles and white fruit. Pithy and quite fine and racy. 88-92

Pessac-Léognan Rouge


Bahans de Haut-Brion 2006
Second wine of Haut-Brion. Some really delicious, fleshy, rounded fruit character immediately on the nose. Nice rounded, plummy fruit with a lovely balance if a touch of astringent tannin that will hopefully fade. There is a slight chewiness and maybe just not so pristine as the second wine of La Mission this year. 87-91

La Chapelle de la Mission 2006
Second wine of La Mission. A very light, floral and fresh fragrance. Cherry and something a little like roses or violet. On the palate a lovely quality of fruit, with a silky black cherry fruit. The dry tannins are refined and add a bittersweet edge, with lovely poise and balance. 88-92

La Mission Haut-Brion 2006
Really poised, composed nose of vivid black fruits and a rounded cedary warmth. The palate has a lovely silkiness, with very pure, glossy fruit and a firm backbone of minerality. The tannins are very firm, but there is a silkiness and plum and cherry skin bittersweet chocolaty finesse. Good length, and a very fine wine. 91-95

Haut-Brion 2006
Gorgeous sweet, ripe, plummy black fruit. With an almost minty ripeness and plushness, but a hint of something more mineral. Lovely sweetness and juicy ripeness on the palate. Really gorgeous tannin quality - outstanding for this vintage. Very long, with extremely good quality. Tannins are dry, but the whole wine is imbued with a gorgeous sense of fleshiness and svelteness. Delicious and, for me, the star wine of the left bank. 93-97

Bouscaut Rouge 2006
Slightly green, moderate fruit and quite meaty. Palate showing quite a lot of oak and a rich, dry, extracted palate but has balance and some elegance. 86-90

Brown Rouge 2006
Nice meaty nose, with plenty of robust, chunky fruit and a nice gamy quality. Nice palate too, with plenty of savoury, dry fruit. A little short perhaps, with structure and some finesse though. 86-90

Carbonnieux Rouge 2006
Much more attractive nose than some, though still quite tough and inky. Much more attractive, violet and ripe cherry fruit. Big tannins, but real sweetness and promising. 87-91

Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2006
Exudes smooth tempered quality on the nose, with very good fruit and very classy oak. Lovely richness and ripeness here, with beautiful fruit quality and balance. 89-93

Gazin Rocquencourt 2006
Quite nutty and meaty, with a subtle but nicely balanced character. A touch dry and inky, but good tannins if a bit rustic. 85-89

Fieuzal Rouge 2006
Quite subdued, earthy, compact and dense fruit. This has plenty of oak on the palate, with a creamy lushness of plum fruit that is really appealing. Very silky tannins and relatively moderate acidity adding up to a very stylish, delicious style. 89-93

Haut Bailly 2006
Lovely sense of meatiness and savoury earthy plum and blackcurrant. A wrapping of sweet but cedary oak is nicely judged too. On the palate quite firm, with a taut blackcurrant fruit and a certain schisty minerality. Firm tannins, but crisp and lively. Nice wine this, with very good length and structure, but some charm. 89-93

Larrivet-Haut-Brion Rouge 2006
Quite green and a bit inky, with vegetal notes. Rather blunt and muscular, with green notes though it seems to have quite ripe tannins in the finish. Hard work and this sample verging on the unpleasant. Provisional 85-89

Malartic-Lagravière Rouge 2006
Elegant, fine cherry and raspberry fruit. Lightly oaked and smart. Nice palate. Oak rather prominent, but silky texture and fine tannins. Refined, quite showy but better than being green and mean. 88-92

Olivier Rouge 2006
A touch of gamy perfume here. Quite nice fruit, with some bittersweet plum skin. Racy and fine. This seems not to have quite the elegance or pure fruit of some, but very good. 87-91

Pape Clément Rouge 2006
Plenty of chocolate and smoky oak, with very full, ripe, vivid fruit. Showy, with coffee and chocolate in abundance, but quite stylish, sweet fruit too and a long tangy finish. Very assertive tannins, but juicy. 89-93

Smith Haut-Lafitte Rouge 2006
Bright, slightly schisty blackcurrant and cherry. Sensuous and rich too, with a sheen of oak adding polish. Very firm liquorice edge to tight, slick black cherry fruit. Very firm and decisive tannins. 88-92

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