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Silvio Jermann (Italy) Pinot Bianco 1998
Here's a lovely wine from Friuli-Venezia in the far Northeast of Italy, where some cracking cooler-climate whites give the lie to the belief that all Italian whites are simple, lemon-fresh quaffers. In many ways this wine has more in common with the wines of Alsace than some of its mundane cousins from the nearby plains of the Veneto. The colour is pale straw. The nose offers very fresh scents of citrus and a certain grassiness, but there are also much richer, more buttery notes of cream, hazelnut and peach as well as complex nuances of flowers and salts. The palate retains wonderful freshness of crisp fruit rounded out by an underlying soft acidity and a full-bodied, unctuous texture. The wine has great charm as well as balance and a bit of complexity. A real eye-opener for Italian white sceptics! (09/00).