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  Duval-Leroy (France) Champagne Brut non-vintage
Smart new packaging for this wine. Wine-pages columnist and fizz guru Tom Stevenson has recently said of Duval-Leroy: "quality has soared and for a few years now it has been possible to claim that no other house can beat it for consistency of style - not even the

greatest of the great". The colour is a light straw/gold, and there are plenty of streaming, small bubbles which rise evenly across the glass. The nose is citrussy and fresh, with crisp lemon aromas and a definite hint of mineral, tight, steely apple fruit, with subtle floral notes. Not much development here. On the palate a crisp and taut style of Champagne; very refined and elegant, with gentle but persistant mousse and plenty of citrus fruit and tiny herbal nuances. Good balance, and a nimble, aperitif style, though it does seem a little lean for now, and would surely benefit from a year or two in bottle. Sainsbury's 16.99 (06/02).