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Domaine de L'Eglantière (Jean Durup), Chablis 1989
Absolutely stunning. A beautifully deep buttercup yellow colour. Superb nose of butterscotch, ripe pineapple and other tropical fruit, but all quite subdued and with intriguing mineral nuances. On the palate the wine is just lovely, with limpid, melting flavours of pear and melon, but still luscious mango and pineapple. It has a buttery, creamy mouthfeel that balances on a knife-edge with apple acidity. Tremendous length, with the purity of the fruit and that wonderful butterscotch flavour persisting. Amazing depth of flavour, yet restrained and elegant with perfect balance. Leading the pack for "white wine of the year" so far, even against Grand Cru opposition. (08/98)