Like Chasselas, Sylvaner does not take kindly to the bottling process, and is best drunk straight from the vat, but every now and then a wine like Bursin's 2002 comes along.
Alsace Sylvaner Caprice 2001 Simonis Rene (€7.75)
Fresh, concentrated aroma, very rich, Passerillé fruit on palate, but needs a lift on the finish.
Alsace Issu Zotzenberg Sylvaner Mon école Buissonnière SGN 2000 Seltz Albert Et Fils
Soil: marno-calcaire. Another Sylvaner with 100g/l of residual sugar, but the sweetness tastes burnt. These two wines from Albert Seltz, and La Colline aux Poiriers below, illustrate why Sylvaner is not authorised for either VT or SGN, although this is not to say that growers should not strive for that one-off, very special late-harvest Sylvaner that can and does happen, especially on the grand cru Zotzenberg. But between the lucky strikes, we are going to get a lot of disappointing oddities like this. If the grower values his reputation, I'm not sure that he should even sell it, let alone at such a high price that it raises expectations.
Alsace Issu Zotzenberg Sylvaner La Colline Aux Poiriers VT 2001 Seltz Albert Et Fils (€18)
Soil: marno-calcaire. Apple puree nose, and very rich on palate (50g/l residual sugar), but lacks freshness.