Independence day, Portugal

The IWA of Portugal aims to champion the best native Portuguese grape varieties, though several of the members also embrace international grapes in their wines. Each member produces wines exclusively from his own vineyards, and aims to "express the genuine terroir from each Quinta." Chairman of IWA is Luis Pato (inset right, against the Douro vineyards of Alves de Sousa), who says: "Our wines show an oenological journey through geography, viticulture and viniculture - and the diverse personalities and objectives of each producer."

Quinta do Ameal, Entre-Douro e Minho

The Quinta do Ameal estate dates from the 1850s, but the Araujo family has owned it for just 15 years. I met with Pedro Araujo and tasted the wines under the shade of an awning outside his winery. I knew some of these wines already, as they are brought into the UK by Corney & Barrow. Pedro is a serious winemaker, determined to show that the undervalued terroir and grapes of Vinho Verde can be harnessed to make great wines. He is particularly devoted to the Loureiro variety, which he has planted in favour of other indigenous varieties. He makes a superior version of what might be considered 'traditional' Vinho Verde, with the tiniest spritz and ultra-clean character. But he also

Casa de Cello, Entre-Douro e Minho and Dão

Though a family wine-growing business for four generations, Casa de Cello has been making estate wines under João Pedro d'Araujo's direction since 1996. João shrugs: "unfortunately just as Vinho Verde sales started to fall in the UK." The estate cannot use the name 'Casa de Cello' on their front labels, as the giant Sogrape has a 'Cello' brand that was registered first. Their Vinhos Verde appear under the Quinta de Sanjoanne label, and wines from their Dão estate under Quinta da Vegia. Left: João Pedro with his mother at the Quinta.

Quinta de Covela, Entre-Douro e Minho

I was already a huge fan of these very modern, and very stylish wines from Nuno Araujo, brought into the UK by Corney & Barrow. I have recently recommended his white as 'Wine of the Week', and his rosé as one of my top pinks for summer 2006. Quinta de Covela is a beautiful south-facing estate, formed as an amphitheatre overlooking the Douro river. Farmed organically, 19 hectares of terraced vineyards curl around the ruins of the original 16th century manor house, in which Nuno (right) prepared a little tasting. Nuno is convinced that it is his organic regime that has led to him producing some superb wines in a very hot, drought vintage like 2005: "the fruit retains balance and keeps its acidity and minerality." He says his vines "absorbed the shock" of such a tough year without showing signs of distress.

Alves de Sousa, Douro

Domingos Alves de Sousa took me up the torturous and bumpy path to the very top of his Douro vineyards to see for myself the steepness, soils and sheer beauty of this site. The name of Alves de Sousa may not be one of the best known in the Port world, but Domingos is part of a family whose vineyards have supplied the Port trade for generations. In 1987 he gave up his career as a civil engineer to dedicate himself to the five Quintas (wine estates) owned by his family, and made the decision to change from supplier of grapes, to producer of estate-bottled Douro wines. Having studied in Portugal and Bordeaux, he has built new cellars and assembled a winemaking team.

Quinta dos Roques, Dão

Luis Lourenço runs this important estate in the small hamlet of Abrunhosa do Mata in the Dão. This was traditionally a farming area, growing both apples and grapes, but mostly composed of small farmers selling to cooperatives. At the beginning of the 1980s Luis made a conscious decision to re-plant with the most suitable indigenous varieties, and to start bottling his own wines, even though they knew selling these might be difficult give that the estate was basically starting from scratch. Today, Quinta dos Roques is a relatively large producer, with 40 hectares under vine and a production in excess of 200,000 bottles, about 70% of which is exported to 15 countries, with the USA the major market.

Luis Pato, Bairrada

Luis Pato, affectionately known as the 'King of Bairrada', is the man who has done most to put this region on the modern winemaking map. He is one of Portugal's most controversial winemakers, and is a serious player with 65 hectares in production. From 2006 his vineyards are devoted entirely to Portuguese varieties, all international varieties having uprooted. Pato's passion is the Baga grape, and he says his chalky clay soils are perfect for it. Other varieties like Touriga Nacional are grown on sandy soils, in a meticulously planned estate. Luis now shares winemaking duties with his daughter, Filipa.