Laroche Hotel & Restaurant

Yet some of the most famous French wine regions are not so well blessed with first class facilities as other wine routes around the world. In many ways, the rather traditional French have been slow to learn from their neighbours and New World colleagues that wine tourism is big business. There's a whole world of independent and adventurous gastronauts who are ready, willing and able to visit the vineyards, but with an expectation that quality, modern hotels and excellent dining will be close to hand. Visit California or South Africa and there is an abundance of beautiful, boutique accommodation right in the middle of the vines. Some are actually on wine famous estates, and some in the charming small towns that invariably dot the wine routes. Yet only in the last few years have some of France's producers begun to wise-up to this new breed of upmarket wine tourism.

Hotel & Restaurant Laroche

The Hotel du Vieux Moulin is an extraordinary boutique hotel of five rooms and two suites, built within a gorgeous 18th century water mill right in the centre of the town. Michel and his wife Gwénaël have restored the building beautifully, leaving its stonework and oak beams exposed in many

But the stunning restaurant is another irresistible attraction. This is the heart of the old mill, and the river Serein rushes beneath the building, viewed through huge plate glass windows on either side of the dining room, looking out to picture-postcard views of ancient houses and flowering window boxes.

And the food? Well it is excellent and ample: the menu may be contemporary, but portions here acknowledge Burgundian appetites. Start at the bar with a glass of Chablis and some delicious gougères (posh, choux-pastry cheese puffs) before choosing from a short, seasonal menu that changes every fortnight. Highlights of my

Laroche Hotel & Restaurant Hôtel du Vieux Moulin 18 rue des Moulins 89 800 Chablis Tél. : +33.3.86.42.47.30 Fax : +33.3.86.42.84.44 vieuxmoulin@larochewines.com Closed January.