Biodynamic Alsace, part I

Biodynamics is an agricultural system first developed by Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner at the start of the 20th century. It is based on organic farming, but goes beyond the obvious avoidance of chemicals and synthetic treatments, to a much more holistic and philosophical regard for the land. Some of its tenets cannot easily be explained, including farming by a calendar that respects the earth's magnetic fields and the rhythms of the sun, moon, planets and stars, and working with preparations that seem almost mediaeval: infusions or herbs and minerals, some, indeed, packed inside cow horns and buried underground. In seeking an answer to the question "What exactly is biodynamic agriculture?" the publication Stella Natura suggests

But despite the lack of explanation for some of the more esoteric aspects of biodynamics, I did come away from this trip with a much better understanding, and a much more fundamental belief in the system. This came about through the fascinating conversations that I had with the winemakers, from seeing the vineyards, the compost heaps, the preparations and detail of the system, and more than anything, from witnessing the respect and sensitivity that all of these producers so obviously had for the vines and their land. (Left: pretty as a picture, an Alsace village).

Domaine Zind-Humbrecht

I met with Olivier Humbrecht twice on my trip: once at the domaine as we tasted some young wines and toured the vineyards, and once in the excellent La Palette restaurant in Wettolsheim where we enjoyed several glorious older bottles. Olivier is one of the most erudite proponents of biodynamism. His approach is pragmatic, and his excellent English allowed him to explain his reasoning very convincingly. Olivier regards the refusal to use chemicals in his vineyards as a necessity: "It is a real problem. Look at Colmar (the nearby large town of southern Alsace) they had to dig only 30 metres to find drinkable water before the war, now the wells are sunk 250 metres - all because of nitrate pollution from fertilisers."

Domaine Josmeyer

Managing Director Christophe Ehrhart showed me around the busy facilities of Josmeyer in the village of Wintzenheim. Josmeyer is a fairly large producer, with 25 hectares of estate vineyards, supplemented with grapes from a group of neighbouring farms, all certified as organic growers. Like others on this trip, Josmeyer's wines are certified by the French Biodyvin organisation, though others have allegiance to the Demeter international body. Josmeyer has holdings in the Grands Crus Hengst and Brand, amongst no less than 42 different parcels of nine different grape varieties, giving Josmeyer a broad palette of terroirs. The Josmeyer style contrast hugely with Zind-Humbrecht, the wines

Domaine Jean Becker

The Becker family have been winegrowers in the village of Zellenberg since 1610. Today's generation of Beckers includes my host, Martine Becker, who showed me around their ancient cellars. In 1999 her brothers Jean Philippe and Jean François Becker (winemaker and viticulturist respectively) converted the 14-hectare estate to organic farming, and later adopted biodynamic principles, though they are not yet biodynamic certified. This is a common theme in Alsace, where 'biodynamic fever' has gripped the entire winemaking scene: amongst the non-certified estates, organic farming and adopting pick 'n' mix components of biodynamic practices is almost universal.

Cave de Ribeauville

I am always keen to see a major cooperative cellar in any wine region I visit. Often the amount of investment and progressive thinking in evidence gives a clue to the general zeitgeist of the region. Here, in the immaculate, airy winery and visitor centre the dapper and alert M.D. Philippe Dry met me, and the omens looked good.

Domaine Albert Mann

I had dinner with the shy but sharp winemaker/owner Maurice Barthelmé in the excellent 1* JY's restaurant in Colmar's 'Little Venice'. Maurice and his brother Jacky farm 19 hectares spread on 8 communes, all of it certified organic, though not biodynamic. But the biodynamist's holistic approach to the earth and the plants is at the core of their philosophy. Their 'mission statement' includes the advice that "Our philosophy is to make a wine nourished by the elements of the soil and not by fertilisers. Our estate wants to produce a wine in harmony with nature. The wine is the memory of the grape." That last sentence seems to lie at the core of belief for the most committed of both organic and biodynamic producers.