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A new name in Burgundy
by Tom Cannavan, 02/06
I attended a tasting earlier this week that featured the portfolio of wines distributed by Inverarity Vaults, a merchant that specialises in supplying the upper end of the Scottish and UK restaurant trade with fine wines. Amongst
an array of interesting wines on show, was a name that was new to me, and turned out to have a fascinating story behind it.
Connolly has spent 11 years in the wine trade, working for Bibendum in London, then Louis Latour in Burgundy, and finally as International Sales Director for the Port house of Quinta do Noval. Meanwhile Bouchet too had made his career in wine, working in business development for both wine and barrel makers in France.
Dan Connolly sees Adamas as representing an exciting and new approach to Burgundy. The choice of name for the Adamas project was not accidental: one of Connolly's missions is to "concentrate light on the traditional winemaking region of Burgundy," by simplifying the packaging of their wines, removing all unnecessary 'clutter' from the labels, and offering extremely consistent wines. He explains: "We have a broad range of wines available to us based on a barrel selection from some of the Côte d'Or's best winemakers." That he believes, will allow them to deliver that consistency.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Chardonnay 2004
Nicely nutty and orchard fruited nose, with fine pear and gently tropical notes. The palate is quite mouthfilling and rich, with a fine quality of racy orchard fruits, and a lovely lemony acidity that is balanced and cleansing. Good length and style here in a very lightly oaked format.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru 2004
Toasted, buttery muffin and nutty notes dominate. Lots of nutty Cox's Pippin fruit. The palate has lovely ripeness and roundness. There's a touch of pear and waxy nectarine, before a really nice nutty background and fine, racy, lemon and mineral acidity. The minerality of this wine really wins through, with a lovely clarity and crispness in the finish.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Meursault 2004
The nose here is much less toasty than the Puligny, with a creamy ripeness, but also a slightly cabbagy quality. The palate has some sweet fruit and a decent ripeness, but somehow lacks the definition and certainly the length and clarity of the Puligny.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Pinot Noir 2003
Lightly schisty, kirsch-like cherry and sweet berry fruit. On the palate there is a ripe, sweet, very fruity character at first, with berries and ripe, juicy cherries. Some juicy acidity and a touch of rather raw oak comes through. This seems a little unknit, and lacks a little fat and generosity.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Volnay 2003
There's a very schisty, quite solid black fruit quality on the nose here, with some spice and touches of liquoricy darkness. Quite fragrant though, with just glimpses of more floral notes. On the palate there's a very keen edge to this wine; the tannic structure has a dry grippiness, and adds charry, smoky notes that give it a dark, tangy character. There is decent acidity given the vintage, and though in need of some food to counteract a slightly hollow mid-palate, this has good quality.
Adamas (France, Burgundy) Nuits St Georges 2003
This has a bloodier, gamier, more attractive aromatic profile for me, with quite solid black fruit and a little animal character. The palate is quite full and generous, with a nice plush depth of black fruit, which is juicy and mouthfilling, like black cherry and retaining that slightly meatier, gamy edge that is so attractive. The tannins here are much better integrated and combine nicely with the mellow oak to leave this quite harmonious and moreish, though it has structure and a food-friendly dryness in the finish.
Initially, sales of Adamas are mainly through restaurants, but there are retail listings with independent merchants, and more being added all the time. Peter Green in Edinburgh and The Tasting Rooms in Dundee have just been
added as this article was published. Prices range from around £9.00 to over £20.00. Stockists are listed on www.adamaswines.com.