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These are the student notes for my basic 6 part Wine Appreciation Course. It is aimed at those interested in developing a deeper understanding and appreciation of wine | ![]() |
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Part 6: Buying, serving and storing wine Wine Appreciation Course. © Tom Cannavan, 1997-2000. Wine is one of the great success stories of the late twentieth century. World-wide sales are booming, wines from many new countries are on the shelves, prices for wine are as low in real terms as they have ever been, choice is enormous and availability is excellent. Supermarkets and high street chains have revolutionised the way we think about and purchase wine. A bottle of wine with dinner at the weekend is now the norm for many "ordinary" people. Twenty or thirty years ago in Britain it would have been unthinkable, but nowadays many of us are as likely to pick up a bottle of wine with our weekly shop, as we are a loaf of bread. As well as developing our knowledge so that we can choose wines with confidence, our enjoyment of wine can be enhanced by understanding the basic rules for correct storage and serving so that the wine can be experienced at its best. Buying wine - understanding the label The world of wine labelling is confusing. It's not that there isn't enough information on labels, it's just that each country - and often each wine region within a country - has its own system for presenting important information on the label. Let's look at a few examples from around the world of wine: This label is a typical French label. with all the information you need to establish the quality level and origins of the wine:
Wine pricing
There are obviously many factors that affect the amount any of us will pay for a bottle of wine.
Apart from the differences in how much each of us can afford to spend on a luxury item like wine,
we are likely to pay a lot less for our "everyday" wine than for a bottle to celebrate a special occasion.
Supermarkets have increased their share of the wine retailing market dramatically over the past
decade or so. With their relentless pursuit of price-cutting to out-do the competition, wines are
now as cheap in relative terms as they have ever been. The average supermarket stocks wines in the
rough price range of £3.00 to £12.00. A detailed look at the proportion of each and every bottle that is
made up of non-wine costs might be quite surprising:
With every bottle costing over £2.70 before a drop of wine is put in it, it stands to reason that
paying £2.99 for a bottle means you are actually buying only 30 pence worth of wine! In
the past year or so the great psychological consumer barrier of £3.00 has been exceeded:
few of us expect to pay less than £3.00 for a bottle, and the only £2.99 wines left on the
shelves are either discounted stock, or "loss-leaders" used as promotional gimmicks.
There is still a great pressure on "mass" wine retailers (supermarkets and chains) to offer
sub £3.50 wines however - the next psychological barrier. I firmly believe that the wise wine
lover really benefits if they can up their basic spending level by a pound or so. At around £4.99 a
whole new range of possibilities opens up, with wines made by producers who are not so
constrained by impossibly low margins, and have a chance to add real character to their
wines. As a general rule, I would always spend my money on three genuinely interesting
£4.99 bottles, than four easy-drinking, but probably dull, £3.49 bottles.
The price of fine wines - particularly those from Bordeaux and Burgundy - is like a runaway
train at the moment, fuelled by speculators and far-eastern buyers who are willing to spend
fortunes in auctions at Sotheby's and Christie's to secure the great names. These wines are
now out of the reach of many ordinary wine lovers: top Bordeaux of the 1996 vintage fetched
£2,000 per case, or £160.00 per bottle.
Superb though these wines are, there are plenty of alternatives in purely value-for-money terms:
extremely well made, complex, delicious wines in the £5-£10 price bracket that are also of the
quality necessary to merit longer term cellaring. From the "lesser" regions of France, Italy and
Spain, and from new world countries such as Australia, Chile, South Africa and the USA, come
a host of individual and profound wines - many of which can rival "prestige" bottles at twice the price.
As your interest in wine grows, you may become tempted to visit some specialist wine retailers
rather than supermarkets.
If buying older wines (say reds with vintage dates more than 4 years old, whites more than 2
years old), it pays to check the condition of the bottle: some retailers do not look after wines on
their shelves adequately, keeping them standing upright in hot, dry conditions where the wine
can maderise (in other words, "cook"). Tell-tale signs of this include seepage from beneath the
capsule, running down the side of the bottle, corks pushed out so that they strain against the
capsule, and low fill-levels where some wine has evaporated. Avoid such bottles, or if you risk
one, keep the receipt and don't be scared to return it if it proves unacceptable.
Storing Wine
Your wine "cellar" might be anything from a proper, underground cellar filled with
expensive rarities, to a few bottles kept on a rack in the kitchen. In either case,
there are certain requirements for maintaining wine in good condition that you
should know. In modern, centrally heated, well insulated houses, some of these
conditions are hard to find, though this is only really a problem if you have wines
you intend to keep for the mid to long term - say 3 to 10 years or more.
What to cellar?
First of all, not all wines are suitable for longer term storage. If stored correctly
almost all red wines will stay in good condition for 2 or 3 years after release, whereas
most white wines are best drunk within a year or so. Beyond that, only certain wines
are considered worth "laying down". With such wines, we hope that not only will they
keep for 10 years, but that they will evolve positively in that time, gaining complexity
and subtlety as they mature.
Red wines suitable for mid to long term storage:
Vintage port
White wines suitable for
mid to long term storage:
Fully sweet white wines
Storage conditions
These are the ideal conditions for cellaring wines, but they are conditions that humans
would find uncomfortable. Modern homes are rather unfriendly places in which to cellar wine.
Notice that the bottles are placed horizontally into racks. This is vital for all wines that are being
stored for more than a month or two. Keeping the bottles horizontal means that the cork is kept
in contact with the liquid, preventing it from drying out. If the bottles are left upright, the cork
will eventually shrink, allowing air to enter and quite quickly spoiling the wine. One of your first
purchases should be a simple rack that will let you store your bottles on their sides.
Despite the inhospitable environment outlined above, it is possible to find a place with
adequate (if not ideal) conditions in a modern home, if a few simple points can be observed:
Constant temperature is far more important than absolute coolness. Ideally, an unheated
cupboard where the central heating will not be constantly raising and lowering the temperature.
If you can keep the temperature down below around 17° celsius (most living rooms are
around 21° - 23°), so much the better. Garages and sheds are not a good idea, as these
freeze in winter and over-heat in summer.
Dark conditions will avoid the wine's fine colour being spoiled, so again an under-stairs
cupboard might be a possible choice, but in any event try to ensure the wine is not in direct sunlight.
Freedom from vibration is important. Constant agitation doesn't give the wine time to
"rest" and mature slowly. Don't site your wine rack next to the washing machine or spin-dryer!
A humidity level of around 80% is ideal for wine, but feels positively damp for humans.
If your wine is kept for a long time in too dry a place the cork can dry out, which might
prematurely age the wine.
Strong smells can taint the wine over long periods of storage - another reason why the
kitchen, garage or coal-cellar might not be the ideal space for very fine wines.
Another aspect that you should learn more about if you plan to build up your own
cellar, is the effect that vintage conditions play on the suitability of wines for laying
down. Many wine books publish vintage charts that show the quality and the "ageability"
of each vintage for each of the important wine regions. For example, 1990 was a superb
vintage in Bordeaux and many of the wines will last for 20 years or more. On the other hand,
1991 was a wash-out: many of the wines from the same producers are best drunk in the
first half dozen years of their life.
If you can pick a space bearing most of these points in mind then buy a few suitable
bottles, you have a cellar!
Serving wine
There can be a lot of pretension surrounding the "correct" serving of wine. Some people
make too big a show of having wine at exactly the correct temperature, served in
exactly the right glass. On the other hand, there is no doubt that there are certain
sensible guidelines for serving wine that should ensure your enjoyment of every bottle is enhanced.
Serving temperature
Decanting wine
Some wines (most of the finest red wines and vintage Ports, for example) are
bottled without filtration. This means that small particles remain in the wine. These
particles - tannins, yeast cells, microscopic pieces of organic matter - are entirely
harmless, but are unpleasant if poured into your glass. For such wines decanting into
a clean vessel prior to serving is the best solution.
To decant a wine, the bottle should be stood upright for a day before opening to
allow the sediment to settle in the bottom. Then, use a steady, gentle motion to pour
the wine into a clean vessel, leaving the last centimetre or so of wine in the bottle,
along with all the sediment. If you can pour the wine with a light source behind the
neck of the bottle even better: then you can easily see as sediment starts to
flow towards the neck.
The idea of "letting the wine breathe" by decanting it and leaving it for a few
hours before serving is to expose the wine to air, which will soften it and mellow
any harsh tannins. This is an inexact science, and only needs to be done if you
are sure the wine is too young and would benefit from the procedure.
Glassware
The basic requirements though, are actually a lot simpler:
As long as your glassware follows these basic rules, it should be ideal for enjoying your wine.
Be careful to rinse your glasses carefully after washing, as traces of detergent can
taint a wine quickly.
Preserving left over wine
One useful system involves a canister containing an inert gas. The gas is squirted into the bottle,
forming a protective barrier from the air, then the bottle is stoppered.
These systems are quite effective and claim to do no damage to even the finest, most delicate wines.
An inexpensive option is a device called the Vacu-vin. This is a small pump and a
collection of rubber stoppers. A stopper is placed in the half empty bottle, the pump is
placed over it, and the air is drawn from the bottle until the stopper seals. In theory you
have removed the air, causing a vacuum, which should help preserve the wine. I find
that this method has mixed results - some wines stand up to overnight storage better
than others - but is an inexpensive option that has some effect.
A simple solution is to keep a couple of empty half bottles clean and ready to be used.
By pouring the remains of a half finished full bottle into a half bottle, you automatically
exclude oxygen. A simple cork should keep the wine fresh for a short period.
Some people swear by freezing half finished bottles. They claim that months later, if
allowed to slowly and naturally defrost, the wine tastes as fresh as the moment it was frozen.
Conclusions
I hope that this course has increased your interest in wine. The aim of the course was
not to "preach" about the rights and wrongs of wine, nor to encourage wine snobbery.
Wine is such an endlessly fascinating subject, and there is so much to learn, that no one
should ever feel that they know it all.
From what we have learned on the course I hope you are encouraged to experiment a
little and that you have picked up useful tips that will let you approach wine with confidence.
More importantly, I hope you will obtain maximum enjoyment from every glass.
At the end of the day, taste in wine is totally subjective: no one can tell you that your tastes
or opinions are wrong. Don't feel intimidated by wine as an academic subject - just enjoy it! |
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